KC9LFD.org

• How to properly use tow straps/chain – A general rule of thumb, each inch of width will allow you to pull out about 10,000 lbs. So if I have a 3 inch wide strap, it would be rated to tug up to 30,000 lbs. Many will then ask, why not go all the way up to a 6″ wide recovery strap? The problem is that the strap becomes less elastic the wider it gets, which means it will not work properly. Typically a 2″ or 3″ wide recovery strap will suit all of your needs.

  How about actually using it? Before ever using the strap, make sure it is in good condition (no cuts, frays, or broken stitching).Some older cars actually have tow hooks, but if not you must use your own judgment. Never attach a recovery strap to a vehicles bumpers, axles, suspension, steering rods, or a trailer hitch ball. The attach points must be to a secure place on the vehicles frame. Do not place the recovery strap on another vehicle in a way that it may be cut.To help protect the strap from tears, make sure all logs and large rocks are removed from the recovery path. Everyone should stand clear of the recovery strap when it is in use.

  When pulling the vehicle out, drive very slowly. Sudden tugs may lead to damage to either of the vehicles or the strap.Make sure to pull the vehicle out straight. This may mean crossing into the other lane of the road, so be careful.

  Never pull a car out from the side or another angle, you will just drag it along the ditch. Also make sure the steering wheels are as straight as possible. You may need to dig snow out of the wheel well, so bring gloves. Try not to use tools or shovels or you may damage components

• How to properly jump start a vehicle – First of all, use a good set of jumper cables. Don’t use any other wire. Wire too small could burn up and risk a fire or explosion launching small bits of wire. Not good.

  Put each vehicle nose to nose and put the hoods up. Attach the negative clamp to the dead car’s engine block. Make sure it’s something metal so it can make contact. Attach the positive clamp to the car’s positive battery terminal. On the car doing the jumping, attach the negative clamp to the car’s engine block and the positive clamp the good battery’s positive terminal.Start the dead car, let it run for a few seconds and disconnect the cables.

  Be very careful that the clamps do NOT touch or they can spark causing damage to the cables and the batteries that are still attached.

If you have any questions on how to do something or have a suggestion, please email me kc9lfd at kc9lfd dot org.

Some information has been gathered from: Offroaders.com.

It’s been a while since I’ve seen dead bodies.. While traveling with my fiance to finish cleaning one more bank, we stumbled upon a line of cars pulling over on the side of the road. Getting closer there was a 2 car colission. The first thing I did was jump out of the car then grab my HT and hit the local repeater. N9UDO (I believe) relayed my request for police and medical.

I got up to the scene and it was a mess. Someone was in the red car giving the trapped driver CPR and asked if they should continue. I knew that wasn’t a good sign. The driver of the black car was outside the car kneeling complaining of severe abdominal pain. Someone said something about a baby… but I didn’t hear any crying.

Minutes after the crash, numerous civilians jumped out and helped the scene. Some were nurses and EMS, others were moral support for the sole survivor. I haven’t seen an accident this bad in a long time, it hit me hard, but what made me feel good was the fact that even untrained civilians would stop everything and come to help in any way, shape or form they could.

I wish I had my truck at the time, it had more supplies than my fiance’s car. But  this is only a dire reminder of how prepaired I need to be. This is going to be something that I will have to bring up to the YTARC and Sauk Co. ARES/RACES in the following two tuesdays. It’s nice to help but nicer to be well prepaired.

The full news article is available here: http://www.madison.com/tct/mad/topstories/311349

At 1730 hours, I had complete strobe failure AGAIN. When I got home, at about 1915, I tore the bar apart again. The front strobes I can hear clicking but they don’t fire, the corner strobes (which I hooked up again) don’t fire or do anything. The power supplies sound like they are clicking happily. I don’t know.

I tell you one thing, I’m fucking tired of Whelen. Not only is this lightbar near impossible to troubleshoot, but the service people charge $75+ per hour (excluding parts). I volunteer, I’m not government funded… They also do not have any kind of bill me later or financing, its either all or nothing. How gay.

At this point, I need to pay out my god damn asshole and pay some schmuck to figure out if I need strobes replaced or power supplies fixed. I’m not going to like the bill either. I’m really really pissed off right now.

What if I said the key factor here was the fact that the lightbar works at night/morning (when I go to work) but not during the day? It appears as if my lightbar has a case of vampiritis. But seriously, that is the biggest thing I noticed but blew off as thinking it was a power supply issue.

“A Xenon flash tube can be very photo sensitive. One will flash normally when exposed to an external light source, but may become very hard to fire when subject to darkness.”

Lets just flip that around. It makes perfect sense. This ties in with another thing I’ve noticed, one of the corner strobes has blackened but still seemed to fire normally at times.

Thus far I have disconnected the one corner strobe. Firing up the strobes in takedown mode, the front and rear strobes fired up. The corner strobes did not, which I kind of semi half quasi expected. But the front and rear strobes appear to be reliable during the daylight hours.

Could I have finally found the problem? Time will tell as usual.

UPDATE 0100: As of midnight, the lightbar was in complete strobe failure. I’m going to disconnect the remaining corner strobes today.

UPDATE 1430: Disconnected the remaining corner strobes, the front and rear strobes appeared to function. Lets see if this lasts through the night.

I went to my truck during my lunch break around noon. Just for kicks I ran MPC01 diagnostics. Complete strobe failure (again) and flashers were working normally. UGH! :’(

So I got the Serial I/O Controller yesterday. First thing I did was jaunt out to my truck and pop it in. Overall review of the board showed no apparent modifications. Oh well. I turned on the MPC01 controller and ran a lightbar diagnostics test. Looking at the lights I saw what I didn’t want to see. The MPC01 confirmed it as well. Same problem, if not worse. I was very sad :’(  (I also never recieved the power supply data promised to me from Whelen).

After returning home from grabbing a bite to eat with my fiance, I had an idea. Getting advice from the Whelen technicians and someone who has worked on Whelen equipment (Mr. W. Jackson), I thought about the grounding issue they mentioned. I thought, why not give the lightbar dedicated power. Sure sure, most people are saying “well duh, stupid” but at the time my quick fix for hooking it up was piggy-backing with the power to my truck’s subwoofer amplifier. I decided to finally remove my KLM 80-watt 2m amp so I could sell it, I used the power leads for the lightbar. I also soldered the shit out of the connection to make sure not even Jesus himself could interfere with the power transfer.  Last night, the MPC01 diagnostics showed everything was functioning nominally. Sweet. But I wasn’t too excited because sometimes the lightbar works and sometimes it doesn’t.

This morning I ran diagnostics and everything was working. Even a half hour ago when I arrived at work, MPC01 diagnostics showed everything working.

Could this have resolved the issue? If so, I would feel like a real dumbass, but live and learn. I’m anxious to get out of work this afternoon to run diagnostics again. I’m going to test periodically throughout the next couple of days to verify reliability.

So, on 10/06/2008 I packaged up my Ultra Serial I/O Controller from the lightbar and had it shipped via UPS to Whelen. I called on the 10th to make sure they recieved it and had to dig through the pile of incoming packages. Monday, the 13th I recieved a phone call saying that the controller is ready and is being sent out. The person unfortunatly gave me the wrong tracking number.

Apparently calling Whelen to get any kind of information is mission impossible. The controller passed all tests and was modified to Whelen specs. From what I was told that means minor hardware modifications for protection and etc. Interesting. But I can’t wait to get it back and check it out.

Finally talking with one of the repair technicians, he gave me some ideas on how I can troubleshoot the two power supplies in my lightbar. Instead of the Serial I/O control for the power supplies, I could go parallel and apply direct power to the power supply power feed and serial connection. So the power is obviously red and black. He said that I should hook the white and gray wires to power to manually power the strobes. The blue/green wires are the actual serial control itself apparently. But when in serial mode, the gray/white wires are unused.

The technician also suggested I do a continuity test on all the wires. I was hoping to avoid that because of the ratsnest and apparent overcomplication of wiring. But the more I dive into the bar the easier it seems to get.

I’m also getting a copy of the design sketch for the power supply to help with my wiring and troubleshooting. I’m hoping it is anything but the power supplies. Rumor has it that they are somewhere around $400 new (if they can’t be repaired) but I think some are available on ebay for $60-$100. But thats ebay… I need reliability not junkyard treasures.

Part I is to wait for the Ultra Serial I/O Controller to arrive and test that to see if the ’specs’ upgrade was worth the $20 in shipping fees. I can’t complain though, the test and mofification and return shipping was free.

Vehicle Status:
Engine: GOOD
Fuel: GOOD
Power: GOOD
Primary Lightbar: FAIL (50% functional, known problem)
Front Cauhtion Lights: FAIL (unknown problem)
Rear Caution Lights: GOOD
APRS Node: GOOD (1 watt, 5/8 wave magnet mount mobile antenna)
2 meter Access: GOOD (50 watts, high gain perm mount mobile antenna)
70cm  Access: GOOD (35 watts, high gain perm mount mobile antenna)

Sauk Co. ARES net was brought online around 09:30 hours. I was dispatched from Baraboo to Reedsburg, WI to position myself at the Reedsburg Area Medical Center. I made excellent time from Baraboo to Reedsburg. I positioned myself in an open area in the parking lot and reported my position to the Sauk Co. net on 147.315. All communications were from my emergency response vehicle.

I was told to check in to the Adam’s Co. net on the 147.105 repeater. Their signal to me was weak. My signal back to them was barely copyable but eventually my message got through. Attempted simplex on 146.700 with next control. Signals were just as bad. Adam’s Co. net control had me go to simplex on 147.570 and QSO N9HWP. His signal was barely copyable and my signal to him failed.

I was told to check in to the Juneau Co. net on the 146.850 repeater. Their signal to me was S3-S4, 100% copy. I recieved a good signal report as well. Switched to 147.570 simpled. QSO with KC9IWD at St. Joeseph’s Hopsital in Hillsboro, WI. Good RX and good TX.

Overall the state wide SET was a success this year. I wish I was able to make more simplex contacts with neighboring counties/locations. Next time I will be more prepared.

It may not be a well known brand, but this amp is sweet! Takes a few watts in and BAAM, 80 earth frying watts out! It also has a nifty makeshift handheld remote on/off switch that plus into a connector on the back of the amp. Of course you can disable the remote on/off and keep it on and use your own solution. Simple to use, on/off, antenna and radio UHF connectors. Works great! I still have it hooked up to my APRS node. I paid over $100 for this amp. Make a reasonable offer

Almost brand new condition and works. 110-120v AC to 12v DC 7 amps. Terminals on the back. Large heatsink. Retails for $60. Make a reasonable offer for it.