Today I would like to make a post about winter weather emergency readiness. Currently my truck has a lot of gear in it but not all of it that I want due to an unforeseen financial situation. Here are some things that you should keep in your vehicle to be prepared:

• Snow Brush/Scraper - This is good for peering into vehicles that have been sitting and collecting snow for a while. Also good to make sure your own vehicle is ready to go. Nothing spells fun like your vehicle dumping 40kg of snow on the car behind you while you drive. Plus it hides your lights and antennas. Cost is $5-7.
• Shovel - Sometimes you need to make a path to get to a car stuck in a ditch. Also good for helping to dig out a car (which I did yesterday, it paid for itself). If you want to get in front of a car to help push, I would suggest shoveling a path instead of jumping in the snow yourself and freezing your twig and giggleberries off. I purchased an inexpensive one that has more of a “cup” for scooping snow instead of just a flat shovel. Note, garden shovels SUCK in the snow, don’t waste your time. Cost $10.
• Emergency Blankets - Small and cheap. These are like large pieces of tin foil. They reflect somewhere near 98% of body heat. These are essential in real emergency situations to help prevent hypothermia whether the victim is inside or outside of the vehicle. If outside the vehicle, it would be good to lay one on the ground/snow for the victim and lay another on top like a nice thermal sandwich. I found mine at Walmart in the sporting goods (camping) section. Cost $2 per blanket.
• Flares - Flares or glow sticks are good for marking a scene or helping to alert other motorists of an issue. Though I don’t think these are absolutely necessary but I carry a few packs of glow sticks in my kit. Flares can be a little costly but they are bright and normally don’t mind getting a little wet. Their flame is water resistant, but don’t let the bodies soak in a puddle. Glow sticks are water resistant but are not as bright. Glow stick cost is about $1 per pack (Dollar Tree).
• First Aid Kit - This one is rather self explanatory. There are a number of reasons for a crash or accident, some of them may be preexisting conditions. But either way, glass cuts flesh as well as hard pieces of ice. Cuts are going to be the most important thing to look out for. Next would be frostbite (which the emergency blankets will help with) and burns. Don’t forget about those poor people who get hit by the cars themselves by being in the wrong place at the wrong time or helping pull someone out of the ditch. Cost is $15+ for a pre made kit.
• Jumper Cables - Batteries can freeze and even dry out. Older batteries or just cold batteries or batteries not properly maintained don’t work well in the cold. Sometimes all they need is a jump. This was the case for my wife’s car during an accident we came upon (look at the previous posts). The battery ended up having some bad cells and needed to be replaced, but a jump got us back home. Cost is $20+.
• Tow Strap - If your truck is powerful enough to try to help someone out of the ditch, by all means. I will be making another post on the proper usage of tow straps (don’t get me started on what I saw yesterday, I was about to open a can of whoop-ass on the husband of the person who I helped dig out of the ditch yesterday). Make sure that the road is clear of traffic and you have your caution lights on. But most important, make sure the road is clear enough where you can get traction. Sparing you a physics lesson, you not only have your vehicle to pull, but the other vehicle PLUS the resistance of the snow. Get the strongest tow strap/cable you can, a little extra doesn’t hurt. Make sure you pay attention to the breaking strength considering what I just said. Cost is $20+. Here is an example of cost and breaking strength at US Cargo Control. Even if your vehicle doesn’t have the proper hookups or power to use tow straps, there are other uses. Maybe someone else who stops has a vehicle that can use them, at least you’re prepared. Also, if someone is stuck in water, it can be used as a somewhat short rescue line.
• Extra Clothes - Snow melts and is nothing more than water. There is your kindergarten lesson for the day. Water is an excellent thermal conductor and likes to be cold. If you have wet clothes in cold weather, your body heat will evacuate at an exponential rate. Carrying an extra set of warm sweat pants, sweat shirt, beanies, mittens or gloves is always a good idea. If you have kids or if someone you help is wet and cold. Even if they are in a heated vehicle, wet clothes are no fun. Cost? Cheap. Visit Goodwill, Savers, Dig’n'Save, or St. Vincent de Paul for clothes so cheap you’ll freak.
• Fire Extinguisher - Yes, snow can put out a fire, but this is by far more efficient. If it’s a minor fire or away from a person then snow may be viable. This is good if you need immediate results to help someone on fire or to get to gain access to a door or window to get somebody out of a burning car. Cost is $20 (for a small one) and up.
• Caution Lights - Everybody loves flashing lights but when used properly, they are essential. Flashing lights catch people’s eyes which is important if you are stopped on the side of the road helping somebody out. I’m personally allergic to being hit by cars (too many times as a kid). If you are a civilian, amber is the way to go. There are cheap lights but some of them don’t work nearly as well. Those single dome lights that blink up and down are inadequate. I would go for a single or dual rotary light from an auto parts store or a LED mini light bar. All of the above can be magnetic mounted so you don’t have to drill holes or permanently mounted if you want. They can be as easy as plugging into a cigarette lighter of a car or permanently wired to your battery if you wish. The key is not to have too few lights or you will not be seen or too many lights or you can distract people and cause more accidents. I have a malfunctioning light bar on the top of my truck, a strobe light on the back of my truck, and two LED packs on the front grill of my truck. Cost can be as low as $40 for a decent light but expect to pay over that.
• Car Fluids - Sometimes people forget to add antifreeze to their car’s coolant (even in the summer, works better than water alone, but winter should have a stronger antifreeze to water ratio). Cars break down, that’s a fact. Sometimes its due to wear and tear, old age, or an accident. It’s a good idea to carry some extra water, antifreeze, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, 5W-30 & 10W-30 oil, and brake fluid. I normally carry most of these just in case my own truck breaks down. I also carry a small gas can with me because sometimes people have brainfarts and forget that their car runs on gas. Cost for a small gas can is about $10.
• Water - Your body runs on the stuff. People traumatized in an accident or have been stranded can be dehydrated which will add to the traumatic effect of the situation. Keep some on hand. Be careful though, water does freeze in a car and can explode or leak and cause water damage. Cost for water is about $6 for a case of 24 bottles.
• Tools - Essential tools for minor repairs would be work gloves, screwdrivers, pliers, needle nose pliers, a wrench set and possibly an adjustable wrench, multi-meter/voltage meter, hammer, ratchet set and bolt cutter. You can carry more if you like depending on your skill set. The hammer is especially useful if you have to break a car window to rescue somebody. The bolt cutter is not essential, but if they crash into a wire fence or if their snow tires (chains) malfunction, it can be rather useful. Don’t buy the super cheap tool sets, they will fail. Trust me on this one. Go to a hardware store and ask the high school kid at the counter what kind of essential tools you should carry. Buy them separately and get a box or cheapo toolbox to put them in. My case cost me $3 at Savers and my tools all together cost me $50+ for my basics, but I carry much more than the basics.
• Salt/Sand - Which can aid in helping a vehicle out of the ditch. It can add traction and help melt ice that reduces traction (this is also useful for getting traction on a slippery road if you intend to pull someone out using a tow strap). The blue stuff is more expensive but works really freaking fast. Cost is about $6 per bag and this can double as added weight on the rear end to give you more traction. If you’re in a pinch or can get a good deal at a pet store, kitty litter will work in a pinch to give you a little extra traction.
• Carpet/Traction Aids - Yes, like what you have in your living room. A reasonable sized piece of carpet or floor mat can also work to give you extra traction. Just place a piece under each wheel of the drive system (front tires for front wheel drive, rear for rear wheel drive, etc). It doesn’t need to be a full roll, just big enough to fit under your tire to give you some momentum. If you have a traction aid kit (like seen on TV), you can lay those down. Cost is free if you have a scissors and a friend in the other room. Just kidding. You can buy a couple of chunks for under $20 at a carpet supply store.
• Vest - Nothing would suck more than being hit by a car while you are trying to help someone out. A reflective vest can be picked up for $10-20 just about any sporting supply store. I wear a yellow jacket and have a reflective vest (courtesy of Sauk Co. ARES/RACES).

This is by no means a comprehensive rescue how to. This is also not a substitution for common sense. If you don’t have training, experience, or common sense, don’t try a rescue because you may become another victum that needs to be rescued. How embarassing would that be? But I’m not trying to turn you away either. DO WHAT YOU CAN! Even if it means pulling over, turning your lights on so other people steer clear of the accident, calling for help via mobile phone, ham radio, cb, or smoke signals and checking to see if the people are alright and offering water, clothes, or a warm vehicle. Police dispatch would like you to be short and sweet and have all the details because they are busy this season.

A sample call should be like “Car in ditch westbound I-94 mile marker 1-1-6, no injuries. White 4-door car, toyota camery, L-P Xray-Xray-Xray-five-five-five. Tow requested.” Be sure to use phoenetics when possible and LP is of course the license plate. Substitute my example for the real deal. Be sure to mention if there is injuries just after the location so the dispatcher can prioritize it accordingly. If there is an injury, be sure to be clear and precise. It is also a good idea to mention your vehicle if it’s easier to spot than the vehicle that needs assistance.

This are some of the things you can do to be a good amateur radio operator helping people out. But this isn’t just for hams, this is for any civillian or professional. After all, our job is to help each other out in a time of need. I know I would want someone to stop for my wife and kids if that were the case.

• How to properly jump start a vehicle - First of all, use a good set of jumper cables. Don’t use any other wire. Wire too small could burn up and risk a fire or explosion launching small bits of wire. Not good.

  Put each vehicle nose to nose and put the hoods up. Attach the negative clamp to the dead car’s engine block. Make sure it’s something metal so it can make contact. Attach the positive clamp to the car’s positive battery terminal. On the car doing the jumping, attach the negative clamp to the car’s engine block and the positive clamp the good battery’s positive terminal.Start the dead car, let it run for a few seconds and disconnect the cables.

  Be very careful that the clamps do NOT touch or they can spark causing damage to the cables and the batteries that are still attached.

If you have any questions on how to do something or have a suggestion, please email me kc9lfd at kc9lfd dot org.

Some information has been gathered from: Offroaders.com.

I got up to the scene and it was a mess. Someone was in the red car giving the trapped driver CPR and asked if they should continue. I knew that wasn’t a good sign. The driver of the black car was outside the car kneeling complaining of severe abdominal pain. Someone said something about a baby… but I didn’t hear any crying.

Minutes after the crash, numerous civilians jumped out and helped the scene. Some were nurses and EMS, others were moral support for the sole survivor. I haven’t seen an accident this bad in a long time, it hit me hard, but what made me feel good was the fact that even untrained civilians would stop everything and come to help in any way, shape or form they could.

I wish I had my truck at the time, it had more supplies than my fiance’s car. But  this is only a dire reminder of how prepaired I need to be. This is going to be something that I will have to bring up to the YTARC and Sauk Co. ARES/RACES in the following two tuesdays. It’s nice to help but nicer to be well prepaired.

The full news article is available here: http://www.madison.com/tct/mad/topstories/311349

I tell you one thing, I’m fucking tired of Whelen. Not only is this lightbar near impossible to troubleshoot, but the service people charge $75+ per hour (excluding parts). I volunteer, I’m not government funded… They also do not have any kind of bill me later or financing, its either all or nothing. How gay.

At this point, I need to pay out my god damn asshole and pay some schmuck to figure out if I need strobes replaced or power supplies fixed. I’m not going to like the bill either. I’m really really pissed off right now.

“A Xenon flash tube can be very photo sensitive. One will flash normally when exposed to an external light source, but may become very hard to fire when subject to darkness.”

Lets just flip that around. It makes perfect sense. This ties in with another thing I’ve noticed, one of the corner strobes has blackened but still seemed to fire normally at times.

Thus far I have disconnected the one corner strobe. Firing up the strobes in takedown mode, the front and rear strobes fired up. The corner strobes did not, which I kind of semi half quasi expected. But the front and rear strobes appear to be reliable during the daylight hours.

Could I have finally found the problem? Time will tell as usual.

UPDATE 0100: As of midnight, the lightbar was in complete strobe failure. I’m going to disconnect the remaining corner strobes today.

UPDATE 1430: Disconnected the remaining corner strobes, the front and rear strobes appeared to function. Lets see if this lasts through the night.

After returning home from grabbing a bite to eat with my fiance, I had an idea. Getting advice from the Whelen technicians and someone who has worked on Whelen equipment (Mr. W. Jackson), I thought about the grounding issue they mentioned. I thought, why not give the lightbar dedicated power. Sure sure, most people are saying “well duh, stupid” but at the time my quick fix for hooking it up was piggy-backing with the power to my truck’s subwoofer amplifier. I decided to finally remove my KLM 80-watt 2m amp so I could sell it, I used the power leads for the lightbar. I also soldered the shit out of the connection to make sure not even Jesus himself could interfere with the power transfer.  Last night, the MPC01 diagnostics showed everything was functioning nominally. Sweet. But I wasn’t too excited because sometimes the lightbar works and sometimes it doesn’t.

This morning I ran diagnostics and everything was working. Even a half hour ago when I arrived at work, MPC01 diagnostics showed everything working.

Could this have resolved the issue? If so, I would feel like a real dumbass, but live and learn. I’m anxious to get out of work this afternoon to run diagnostics again. I’m going to test periodically throughout the next couple of days to verify reliability.

Apparently calling Whelen to get any kind of information is mission impossible. The controller passed all tests and was modified to Whelen specs. From what I was told that means minor hardware modifications for protection and etc. Interesting. But I can’t wait to get it back and check it out.

Finally talking with one of the repair technicians, he gave me some ideas on how I can troubleshoot the two power supplies in my lightbar. Instead of the Serial I/O control for the power supplies, I could go parallel and apply direct power to the power supply power feed and serial connection. So the power is obviously red and black. He said that I should hook the white and gray wires to power to manually power the strobes. The blue/green wires are the actual serial control itself apparently. But when in serial mode, the gray/white wires are unused.

The technician also suggested I do a continuity test on all the wires. I was hoping to avoid that because of the ratsnest and apparent overcomplication of wiring. But the more I dive into the bar the easier it seems to get.

I’m also getting a copy of the design sketch for the power supply to help with my wiring and troubleshooting. I’m hoping it is anything but the power supplies. Rumor has it that they are somewhere around $400 new (if they can’t be repaired) but I think some are available on ebay for $60-$100. But thats ebay… I need reliability not junkyard treasures.

Part I is to wait for the Ultra Serial I/O Controller to arrive and test that to see if the ’specs’ upgrade was worth the $20 in shipping fees. I can’t complain though, the test and mofification and return shipping was free.

Sauk Co. ARES net was brought online around 09:30 hours. I was dispatched from Baraboo to Reedsburg, WI to position myself at the Reedsburg Area Medical Center. I made excellent time from Baraboo to Reedsburg. I positioned myself in an open area in the parking lot and reported my position to the Sauk Co. net on 147.315. All communications were from my emergency response vehicle.

I was told to check in to the Adam’s Co. net on the 147.105 repeater. Their signal to me was weak. My signal back to them was barely copyable but eventually my message got through. Attempted simplex on 146.700 with next control. Signals were just as bad. Adam’s Co. net control had me go to simplex on 147.570 and QSO N9HWP. His signal was barely copyable and my signal to him failed.

I was told to check in to the Juneau Co. net on the 146.850 repeater. Their signal to me was S3-S4, 100% copy. I recieved a good signal report as well. Switched to 147.570 simpled. QSO with KC9IWD at St. Joeseph’s Hopsital in Hillsboro, WI. Good RX and good TX.

Overall the state wide SET was a success this year. I wish I was able to make more simplex contacts with neighboring counties/locations. Next time I will be more prepared.